We first need to choose our colors. This can be one of the most complicated parts of the stamping process. Of course, there are color swatches, the best way to choose the color from a color swatch is to choose a color from the swatch and then return one or two colors to get the actual color you want how many stamps do I need. This is very similar to choosing a color to paint a room. There are many variables such as lighting and the other colors in the room (sofa, carpet curtains, etc.) that you want to paint. How many times did you choose a color in the paint store and start painting your room and suddenly it seems that it doesn’t match the color you chose from a sample? This is what I call a perceived vision. If you can relate to what I just mentioned, it also applies to choose a color for your stamped concrete project, there are many variables of perceived vision, such as sunlight and surrounding colors, such as the color of your house, grass and landscaping
When pouring and finishing your stamped concrete project, I suggest you start with no more than 100 square feet. Firstly, let the concrete truck driver put the color on the concrete truck for you and let it mix for at least 10 minutes. You may notice some streaks of color when you get out of the concrete truck, don’t worry. You will want some color differences as it will resemble the natural colors of any print or stamp you have chosen for your project. For example, if you look at a rock, you will notice that it has many shades of the same color, and often other colors. Your next step will be to insert the concrete into your shapes, you will need what is called a screed board or a 2 “x 4”, the purpose of a screed board is to level the concrete within your shapes and also knock down the aggregate or rocks inside the cement.
Place wet concrete inside your formwork and leave it about 0.5 “higher than the top of your formwork. A good way to get a rough grade is to use a tool called a concrete rake or a square-edge shovel. Once you have Once the .5 concrete has been achieved above your working method, the “flush” process can begin. You will need someone to help you with this process. Once you have one person on each side of the ruler board, each of you will start pulling the concrete toward the end of the leveling job as you go. At this point you will need a floating bull to close the concrete surface.
In general, you will run the floating bull from top to bottom on the concrete, overlapping each previous pass by approximately 50%, and then repeat the process from side to side. Don’t worry about leaving it completely flat, as once you start stamping it it won’t lay flat. Don’t obsess over small dives or small elevation changes in concrete. Now you can start skirting the perimeter of concrete with an edge tool, again, don’t be obsessed with making this perfect, especially if this is your first time. You will now run an ash in your project in the same way as the floating bull.
Now is the time to seal your project. Before the concrete truck arrives, you’ll want to put the liquid release agent in a cheap garden sprayer and also get some surface retarder and do the same. Liquid release simply allows you to place the rubber seal over the concrete without removing the finish from your concrete, the surface retarder will decrease the setting time of the concrete if you feel you are falling behind. Simply spray the area where you will place your seal and the seal itself before placing the seal on the concrete. Do not sterilize the entire project at once as this will speed up the setting time of the concrete and will most likely dry out before reaching the end of your project. Lay each seal down and place the next tight seal against the seal mat that is already in the concrete. Repeat this process until you reach the end.
Let your project heal for about 3-5 days and it’s time to add secondary colors or the old stage. For this you will need an old agent, I suggest you use charcoal or gray for the first time. You will also need to get some xylene, one gallon for every 80_90 square feet. Then you will add 5 tablespoons. of old agent for xylene in a 1 gallon garden sprayer and stir or shake for about 45 seconds. In a circular motion, spray the secondary colors onto the stamped concrete project, keeping in mind to spray some areas thicker than others, being careful not to spray them with a thick thickness, this will give you a more natural finish.